Why salmon is different from everything else you smoke
Smoke sticks to moisture and to fat, and a salmon fillet is generously supplied with both. It is also thin, which means there is no deep interior for the flavor to dilute into — on a pork shoulder the smoke compound sits on a surface that is later shredded through eight pounds of meat, while on salmon it sits on a surface that is most of the portion.
The practical consequence is that the usual beginner failure mode reverses. Everywhere else on this site we tell people they are probably not using enough wood. On fish, almost everyone uses too much. If smoked salmon has ever tasted harsh or ashy to you, the wood was probably hickory or mesquite, there was probably too much of it, and it was probably still smoldering dirty when the fish went on.
The woods, and what each one does to a fillet
| Wood | Strength | Form | On salmon |
|---|
| Apple | Mild, sweet | Chunks (4 lb bag) | The default. Hard to overdo even if you misjudge it |
| Cherry | Mild, slightly sweet | Chunks (4 lb bag) | Same gentleness, deeper color — the prettiest fillet |
| Variety pack (apple, cherry, hickory, mesquite) | Mild to very strong | Chips (four bags) | Use the apple and cherry bags; keep the mesquite for beef |
| Hickory | Strong | Chunks | Only as a single small piece blended with apple, if at all |
| Mesquite | Very strong | Chips/chunks | No. It overwhelms fish |
The variety pack is on this page for a specific reason: it is chips, not chunks. Most people smoking fish are doing it in an electric or propane cabinet, and a chunk sitting in an electric smoker’s chip tray barely smolders. If that is your cooker, buy chips and ignore the chunk bags entirely — our chips versus chunks guide explains which format belongs in which smoker.
How much wood, and for how long
For a single side of salmon: one fist-sized chunk on a charcoal cooker, or about half a cup of chips in an electric or gas smoker’s tray. Load it once. Do not top it up partway through, which is the single most common way a fillet ends up over-smoked, and do not plan on the hour-long re-load cycle you would use on a long cook — our wood chip timing guide explains why a fish cook is the exception.
Wait for clean smoke before the fish goes on. Wood that has just started smoldering puts out thick white smoke loaded with the compounds that taste bitter, and salmon will pick that up in the first five minutes. Thirty seconds of patience here is worth more than any wood choice on this page; thin blue smoke covers what you are looking for.
Cedar planks are not a smoking wood
Cedar comes up constantly with salmon and it is worth being precise about. USDA’s smoking guidance is explicit that you should use hardwood or fruitwood and never a softwood — pine, fir, cedar or spruce — because softwood gives food a turpentine flavor. That is about softwood as fuel: smoldering cedar chips to make smoke is a bad idea.
A cedar grilling plank is a different technique. The soaked plank is a cooking surface that scorches on its underside while the fish steams on top of it, over a grill rather than in a smoker. We have no verified plank listing to recommend, and if your question is which wood to put in your smoker, the answer stays apple.
Hot smoking, cold smoking, and which one this page is about
Everything above is hot smoking: the fillet cooks in the smoker and comes out flaking, at the 145°F internal temperature FDA names. That is what a beginner should do, and our smoked salmon guide walks through it.
Cold smoking — the silky, sliceable lox style — is a cure-and-smoke process that never cooks the fish, and it carries real risk if it is done casually. FDA advises that at-risk groups avoid refrigerated smoked seafood labeled “nova-style,” “lox,” “kippered,” “smoked” or “jerky” unless it is used in a cooked recipe. We are not going to hand you a cold-smoking recipe on a wood page. If you want gentle smoke without heat for cheese or an already-cooked product, a pellet tube is the tool people use, and the fish-curing question is out of scope here.
The short version
Apple, one chunk or half a cup of chips, loaded once, with the smoke running clean before the fish goes in. Cherry if you want the fillet to look darker — our cherry versus apple comparison is the whole difference between those two bags in one page. Chips rather than chunks if your smoker is electric or gas. Nothing stronger than a single small piece of hickory, ever, and no mesquite at all. Then cook to 145°F and check it with a thermometer rather than by eye — FDA is blunt that color and texture are unreliable indicators of safety.